Considered Southern California's playground, Baja California (namely Tijuana, Rosarito Beaches, and Ensenada) can attribute its reputation to its infamous 'sin' industries--drinking, gambling, and (legal) prostitution--which have long lured Americans across the border for bacchanal binges. Buoyed mainly by University students from nearby San Diego, California and American soldiers from Camp Pendleton, Baja's appeal to its neighbors is as strong today as it was when thirsty Americans crossed the border to seek reprieve from the Eighteenth Amendment of the US Constitution--Prohibition.

Given the misnomer Baja California , the Baja Peninsula is, indeed, Mexican territory. It is broken up into two regions Baja Norte (primarily called Baja) and Baja Sur; each have their respective appeal with Americans and rely, heavily, on tourism: Baja Sur's perennial tropical climate is a major draw for Spring Break types who flee books and the bonds of cold weather to 'let is all hang out' in place such as La Paz and Cabo San Lucas. The resort-town has become so popular with North American college students that MTV has spent many a season recording the festivities for its annual Spring Break series, which showcases the debauchery that ensues when the legal drinking age is only 18.

Equally popular in Baja Norte are Tijuana, Rosarito, and Ensenada which see their fair share of college students all-year round. With the San Ysidro border a mere 15-minute walk from downtown Tijuana, this border town becomes a hot spot over short holidays and long weekends; and the fact that one's state ID card or driver's license is the only identification needed to cross the border makes it that much more accessible (although this changes in 2008 when Passports will be needed to cross the border).

Those wishing to see more than just Tijuana usually rent cars and make the journey down to Ensenada, taking in the sights along the way; many end their trip at La Bufadora , the famous 'blowhole,' and the furthest point south that an American can travel without the purchase of a Mexican tourist card, a sort of visitor's visa valid for Americans staying more than 72 hours or wishing to travel further south than the traditional tourist towns. This reporter took the famous roadtrip through Tijuana, Rosarito, and Ensenada (with a few stops in between), and discovered that Baja California, contrary to is name, is not an extension of California, rather a distinct culture and world all unto itself, peppered with the influences of the indigenous people of its origins, those that have migrated from the Yucatan Peninsula, and even the far-reaching influences of America; the mezcla has created a land that appeals to the gastronome, the nomad, and the adventurer.

Legendary Tijuana was the first stop on my three-day trip to Baja. Crossing the border with greater ease than I expected, I piloted the white Mazda up to one of the booths where an officer only grunted to my cheery, "Hola!" She handed me a pamphlet and waved me through.

General rule of thumb for most Americans who choose the option of a road-trip through Baja is Mexican auto insurance, as U.S. insurance generally won't cover vehicles in Baja. A small depot just across the border is set up for the purpose, and relatively inexpensive at about $23.00 a day. Fully secure, Tijuana awaits the ambitious traveler.

Pass through the Puerta de Tijuana onto La Avenida Revolución, Tijuana's main thoroughfare, to be bombarded by English-speaking salesmen who hock everything from Mexican jumping beans, handmade silver goods, and souvenirs; along this stretch, restaurants catering to Americans, host servers who shout out the day's specials--usually 2-for-1 drinks. Half the fun is bartering over unnecessary bric-a-brac, and it is a must to take the typical tourist photo with Tijuana's famous striped burros, or donkeys, which look more like zebra than equine kin.

Capitalizing on the health-care war raging to the North, Mexican pharmacies, or farmacias , abound, advertising inexpensive sleep aids, sexual enhancement drugs, and other vital medications that lure seniors and the price-conscious. Each pharmacy promises an on-the-spot consultation with its pharmacist, but the ready display of drugs in candy-shop style reveals the ease of purchasing without a prescription.

Most places accept American dollars, and actually prefer it; however, keep a mind for the exchange rate, as a tendency to round up to the nearest dollar may cause one to pay more than the value of merchandise. Banks and ATMs are plentiful, but currency is dispensed in pesos. The best value, however, is won by using credit cards, which strictly adhere to the exchange rate, where the dollar wins out (check with local banks for surcharges on international transactions, though).

Promenading north to south on 'La Revo' is usually the safest bet for foreigners, as it gives an encompassing view of the avenue and leads away from Tijuana's famous red-light district, or Zona Norte , where depravity is exhibited by 'working girls' in short skirts promising a good time; bars line each side of the street akin to New Orleans' famous Bourbon street, each offering its own show of some sort to entice passersby. Walking too slowly may show you to be indecisive, prompting some of the girls to help you come to a decision by lightly touching your arm.

As a result of American tourism, many restaurants boast a price that is comparable to U.S. prices, but many will offer a prixe fixe, setting the price at a reasonable rate, less expensive than ordering a la carte. If one absolutely must have American food, a domineering Hard Rock Cafe makes its home at the northern tip of La Revo, and McDonald's can be found, along with western US chains, such as El Pollo Loco and Del Taco; however, if tacos are your craving, it's best to buy them from the trolley carts. Topped with sliced tomato, shredded lettuce, sour cream and chile, the fish tacos are delectable--top it off with the lime for an authentic experience!

Aside from fish tacos, a trip to Tijuana wouldn't be complete without elotes, or corn, also served from push carts or supermarket baskets by attendants who walk the street shouting, " Elotes ! Elotes !" Watch your host whip open the top to a cooler where ears of corn are wrapped in steam which escapes with a large sigh as it's opened. The simple ear is then transformed into a delicacy as it is doused in a culinary assault of butter, Parmesan cheese, and chili. Mouthwatering, it's usually found for about a dollar.

Hotels abound in Tijuana, and even many famous American brands have found themselves south of the border, such as the Marriott and Residence Inn, but Baja brands, themselves, have established a foothold and boast many top-ranking hotels, such as the Grand Hotel Tijuana, which occupies the landmark Agua Caliente Towers, and Baja Inn, a small chain that operates hotels in Tijuana and Ensenada. Modestly priced, rooms are no-pretense, yet comfortable. Single-occupancy rooms, furnished with twin full-size beds, are equipped with modern amenities that are commonplace to most Americans, but are indicative of luxury in Baja: air conditioning, private bath, cable television, and bottled water (which this reporter used for brushing his teeth). The Hotel and Suites Country Club, located next to the Agua Caliente racetrack, just outside of the zona comercial, or Business District, is a spacious mainstay that is well-known as an understated, demure top-star hotel, which services to suite a business traveler, or one who desires to spend a night in comfort without breaking the bank.

An early check-out, buoyed by an eagerness to "hit the road," found me driving head-on into one-way traffic on the boulevard Agua Caliente, which splits, covertly, with no warning signs--at least, none that I saw. A quick maneuver onto a perpendicular street got me back into the flow of traffic and onto México 1, Baja's national Transpeninsular two-lane highway, one for each direction. During heavy traffic, driving the Transpeninsular can be a nightmare, as slow motorists clog the flow of traffic, reducing one to speeds of 9 kmh, or 15 mph. Those desiring a more fluid drive should consider the Mex 1D (sly named) "Scenic Route," Baja's coastal toll-road, with three toll gates between Tijuana and Ensenada, which charge $2.20 per car. Its real benefit is the fast-moving flow of traffic where American motorists mistake the high number of kilometers per hour for miles per hour and break the law at break-neck speeds; perhaps México 1 is a blessing in disguise as its slower pace allows one to truly enjoy the same scenic views as its quicker counterpart.

About seven miles south of Tijuana, the México 1 runs through the town of Rosarito, known as a popular destination for its beaches, where scantily-clad Southern Californians migrate to tan and laze in the sun. Outside of Tijuana, it is known primarily as a weekend party town, where shopping, bar-hopping, and fireworks are the main draw along the boulevard Benito Juarez. Traditionally, Rosarito has been known for its rustic wood furniture, most of which is handcrafted and cheaper than is found in the States.

A visit to most restaurants and bars offers views of the beach, some offering a patio that opens onto the sand, where revelers drink and walk down to the water to enjoy the buzz. A highlight of the beach, and one of this reporter's favorite activities in Mexico, is beach-front horseback riding. Usually corralled with three or four other riders, the ride can be quite slow and tranquil, as a guide leads the group along the waterline; exhibit some skill and you may be able to talk a guide into letting you gallop and trot away from the group, and get a little wind in your hair, just remember to tip him for this privilege ($5.00 is more than sufficient, as the ride only costs about $8.00 an hour). 'Photographers' stroll the beach with Polaroid cameras to capture your excitement, and attendants from the various bars and restaurants will take drink orders for those closer up on the sand, near the respective establishments. Tecate, Mexico's national beer, is pushed heavily, as is Corona and Dos Equis. Most Americans know to steer clear of frozen margaritas, unless it's noted that they are made with purified ice. Senor Frogs and Rock & Roll Tacos are popular haunts that are always buzzing.

On your way out of town, make sure to stop by and visit the Fox Studios Baja, which became a tourist attraction after Titanic was filmed here in 1997. Along the Transpeninsular, you'll also find many road-side stands selling "coco," or green coconuts. For a price of $2.00, a vendor, often children, will wield a machete across the top portion of the nut and insert a straw through the flesh to get to the milk inside. On a hot day, where drinking the water would wreak havoc with an American's digestion, coconut milk can be a refreshing treat; just make sure to pick cocos that are not too brown, as the milk gets bitter as they mature.

A few miles north of Ensenada, where México 1 meets México 3, a road that runs northeast from Ensenada to Tecate, lies the Valle of Guadalupe, Mexico's wine country. Signs that denote the "Ruta de Vino" (Wine Route) lead the way on a dusty, windy road that demands caution, as it hugs the edge of steep cliffs. Signs along the way caution motorists to reduce speeds and heed dangerous curves, while others warn weary motorists to stay awake and drive alert. After almost an hour (at slow speeds), the wineries appear (quite literally) like an oasis in the desert.

The first vineyards in this area were planted to supply wine for religious services, and Father Juan Ugarte is given credit for the first vineyard at Mision de San Francisco Javier. A subsequent ban in vineyards, by the Spaniards forced Mexicans to other beverages, (such as tequila) until after Mexican independence. Today, there are 15 wineries that dot the Guadalupe Valley, ranging from large distributors and family-owned manual operations.

Larger wineries are situated in boxy buildings that resemble warehouses, with modern tasting rooms; whereas the smaller, family-owned wineries resemble ranchero-style houses, such as that of La Casa Vieja , one of the first few wineries at the mouth of the wine route, whose winery is a restored adobe ranch house which has been in the family for generations.

Tastings at any of the wineries are comprised of the locally-grown wine, cheese, and, olives which may have been grown on the land, and will cost anywhere from $8.00 for a basic glass of wine with a small tray of cheese and bread to about $45.00 if one desires to make a day of it and have lunch on-site. Well-known brands include Domecq, Chateau Camou, and La Cetto, and some of the wineries even have tasting rooms in Ensenada.

Ensenada, like Tijuana, accommodates tourism as its major industry and has many of the same amenities; however, whereas Tijuana is known for a good party, Ensenada is known for good eats and patriotism. The city's main drag, Avenida Lopez Mateos is aburst with flag-draped orgullosos, or proud Mexicans, underneath building-high busts of famous Mexican notables.

Located on the harbor of Bahia de Todos Santos, seafood in Ensenada is sublime, pulled fresh from the Pacific, and served in a myriad of ways from those famous fish tacos to tapas-style dining, where in one sitting you can have your fill of tamales and enchiladas. Those desiring heartier meals should try El Taco de Huitzilopotchtli, where its traditional dish of 30-odd years is the mixiote, a dish of lamb blanketed in maguey leaves and cooked over 16 hours in mesquite-fired ovens.

Margaritas here are made with Baja's own damiana tequila, lauded for its properties as an aphrodisiac. Frozen margaritas are made, more often than not (but it never hurts to ask) with purified ice and offers refuge from the oppressive heat and humidity.

No trip to Ensenada would be complete without a sidebar excursion to La Bufadora, the geyser known as 'the blowhole.' Known for shooting high into the air (sometimes up to 200 feet), local lore has it that the spout of water is actually caused by a trapped whale.

Exploring the tourist areas can leave one weary, and quite famished, for which there is only one remedy: Puerto Nuevo. The small fishing village has gained international fame for its lobster, which it serves frito or a la plancha (or grilled), with sides of tortillas, rice and beans, guacamole, chips, and salsa. Prices generally range about $18.00, pushed to just at $20.00 with a nice glass of white wine. There are well over 30 restaurants and they all offer the same deal, with variations on side dishes. Walk around until a deal looks appealing, or until busboys shouting out prices meet your fancy. Unless you have pesos or dollars in tow, make sure credit cards are accepted, as the village has a lone ATM which was out of commission during my visit.

Getting into Baja is worlds easier than getting out, as mile-long lines of California licenses moving at a snail's pace is the norm at the border. Beyoncé was my entertainment for two hours as I sat in Labor Day traffic seeking to cross back into the United States. The wait can be entertaining, however, as vendors selling fruit juices, elotes, churros, and statues of the Virgin Mary dip precariously between cars, delivering goods to customers who paid for goods almost a mile back. It's best to get in one lane and stay put, as cars move bumper-to-bumper and the time wasted trying to switch lanes is equivalent to that of just sitting still.

At the border, Federali dip behind cars with dogs that sniff for narcotics; the border serves as a crossing point for all sorts of illegal goods moving into the US and President Bush's vow to strengthen the border is highly visible. Single men are particularly suspicious, as they traditionally serve as coyotes, sneaking illegal immigrants and children across the border. As such, I was asked to open my trunk and the bottom and sides of my car were searched and banged--presumably to scare anyone ensconced out of view.

"Occupation?" the crossing guard asked me and I replied, "Journalist." He looked once more at my passport, "Hope you enjoyed your stay." Indeed, I had.  

~Dontré Conerly